Atractions: Volcano
It is an active volcano, over a million years old. Soars 1,916 m above sea level and spreads over 400 square kilometres.
I have been reliably informed – on numerous occasions and by variety of people – that the view from the summit of Rincon de la Vieja is both breathtaking and stunning.
Apparently, one can see Guanacaste tablelands sweep down to the Pacific Ocean; to the east glitters the Athlantic; northwards, the perfect canoes of Ometepi’s twin volcanoes rise dramatically from the calm waters of Laje Nicaragua. I say apparently because I cannot personally vouch for these statements. This is my fifth trip to the to and , as usual, the vista has been reduced to about ten feet in all directions and consists of a uniform white wall of dog. I always seem to have bad luck when climbing mountains.
It’s still incredible up here, though. Not one hour ago, I was trekking uphill through towering rainforest, sweating in humidity, feeding mosquitoes and feeling the heat. Now I an on barren land, a Martian landscape – grey instead of red, but just as lifeless. It is cold, and I shiver, silently thanking myself for having the sense to pack a raincoat. There are no insects to bother me up here; the howling trade winds have blown them all away. It’s hard to believe that I am less than 6500 feet above sea level; it feels like another planet as I follow steep sided ridges across an alien landscape.
Little piles of stones, placed at regular intervals by the park rangers, guide me through the mist to the edge of an active crater. The foreshortened view and distinctly English weather do nothing diminish the raw visual power of this place as I peek timidly over the edge of a sheer sided maw. Air bone chemicals sting my eyes and dry out my throat; sulphurous dragons hiss up to nudge me closer to a precipitous doom. I decide not to linger in this powerful and somewhat scary place.
The warmth of the forests surrounds and comforts once again as I descend the 5 mile trail to park headquarters. The mosquitoes, pleased at my return, rush out to greet me likeold, long lost friends, and up in the canopy a group of long-limbed spider monkeys pause on their journey to some far away fruit tree. They shake branches in irritation at my presence before swinging elegantly off into the greenery.
I absolutely love this place; untamed nature at its unsurpassed best. Unlike the world famous Arenal Volcano, Rincon de la Vieja does not spew forth molten lava. Instead, it simmers like a kettle on the stove, surprising the local residents every now and then by blowing its top and dusting the countryside with smoke and ash. The last eruption happened in 1995 and was big enough to warrant the evacuation of a few small villages on the Caribbean slopes.
During the 1800s, Rincon de la Vieja was even more full of zip; a veritable sizzling mountain of brimstone and fire. Spanish Captains navigated at night by the glow from its then-very –active crater. But these days, there are no pyrotechnics; just flatulent mud pools that hint at the energy seething below.
It’s a great place to visit, and two weeks is not enough to experience everything the area seething below. The volcano’s national park trail system is one of the best in Costa Rica. Along the forested paths are various geothermal hot spots where steam gushes from vents in the Earth and swirls majestically up through the canopy. It’s wonder the monkeys and birds do not spend their days with wrinkled noses and beaks. It really does smell of rotten eggs, but I got used to it, and after a while I actually came to like it.
I rambled through rainforests, dry forests, cloud forests and elfin forests and took a hike through the “dead zone”: a natural pasture where toxic gases above and below the ground prevent trees from growing. I assaulted summits and explored magical valleys where waterfalls of the most brilliant blue tumble from steep gorges.
The water, laced with sulphur, softened my skin but ruined my hair; a sort of counter-conditioner that gave me some insight into how Tina Turner must feel. The extra volume helped me sleep better, though; it acted as a sort of pillow on what would otherwise have been an uncomfortable camping mat. The nights here are peaceful, and I am lluledby whispering breezes and whistling insects.
Breakfast is shared with the campground agouties, after which I roll up my tent and sleeping mat and ride off into the sunrise upon my newly acquired steed. The horse had been sent to pick me up and take me to a local luxury resort and spa, one of several nestled upon the flanks of this giant volcano. I enjoyed my timeunder canvas, but my aching spine and pummeled muscles have been begging for a comfortable bed, they needed rewarding for all their hard work.
Despite the overall extravagance of the hotel – the saunas, thermal spas, fine dining and oversized mattresses – activity is still geared toward outdoor adventure.
The next three days were spent exploring the mountain scenery on a variety of unusual transports, and in the process, I discovered a few surprising qualities about myself.
I am a wizard on a quad bike, despite being the most dangerous car driver on Earth. I am a fairly competent horseback rider, or so it seems. I galloped, catered and trotted all over the place and didn’t fall off or get trampled.
And I have uncovered a latent love of volcanic spas, finding myself reluctant to leave the soothing hot waters, even when the hour was late and my hands started to look like my grandmother’s face.
Conversely I have been exposed as the world’s biggest wuss when it comes to canopy tours. I screamed from platform to platform, scaring the local monkeys and panicking the parrots who vacated the trees with a clatter of wings.
Rincon de la Vieja is a magical place and there are activities aplenty for evertone. And so I will continue to return, and each time I do, I will climb once again to that alien world at the summit in the hope that the clouds will part and grace me with a glimpse of the beautiful view that I have heard so much about. But if not, well, that will give me all the excuse I need to come back another time.
The most recent eruptions happened in 1983, 1984, 1991 y 1996.
At the south of the volcano, we can find two areas Las Pailas and Las Hornillas. There you can see thermals fonts, which form hot water ravines.
Flora and Fauna
It presents various habitats as a result of the difference in altitude and precipitation, effect of volcanic eruptions and the slope type. In the slow parts, some of the most common trees are: the laurel, the guanacaste, the aceituno, the ardillo and the capulín blanco. In the massive middle parts, between 1200 and 1400 above sea level, the most abundant trees are: the copey, the cuajada, etc. From 1400 m, to the top, the most common species are: the crespón, the papayillo, etc.
The park presents over 257 species of birds, including the three- wattled bellbird with its unusual loud metallic song.
Some of the mammals are: peccaries, tapirs, Congo and white- face monkeys, etc. The insects are abundant in this area, some of them are: the beautiful morpho butterflies, which are present in four different species.
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